Sunday, August 31, 2014

Some things I've noticed so far....

There are so many misconceptions and interesting things about Taiwan.  First, I was told that I would not be able to find certain items here so to ship a bunch of things over.  I have found pretty much everything here that I could ever want.  I may have to hunt for it a bit (like mayo) but I find it.  I was told that finding bread would be a problem.  Puhleeze!  There's a French bakery in my neighborhood. I have found unscented lotions, cheese, peanut butter, Corn Flakes and many more things.  I understand shipping medications like ibuprofren and sudafed here because I wouldn't recognize or be able to read the box even if I found it, but everything else?  Buy it here.

I have seen few people smoke here.  All restaurants are non-smoking and I have yet to see a cigarette butt on the ground.

There is a lot of gender equality here.  I've seen both men and women doing jobs like construction, teaching, building maintenance, etc.

The food isn't only about vegetables....it's more about the meat and every part of the animal. We pretty up the names of cuts of meat in the states so they sound more appetizing - pork loin, sirloin, hanger steak.  Here, they call it like it is - pig cheek, brain and duck blood.

China is known for it's tea and Taiwan is no exception.  The tea here is fantastic.  I may not be able to find English Breakfast very easily but they make the most amazing tea drinks that I wish we could find in the states.  My favorite, green tea, lightly sweetened with a whole pink grapefruit juiced right in it and served cold.  No ice.  They give you a wide straw to suck up all of the pulp...it's like having a drink and a snack all in one.  Delicious!

You can't drink the water at all in Taiwan.  The water has all of these heavy metals in it and you see it as hard water stains everywhere in your bathroom and sink.  I get water delivered and it costs less than $2 for a five gallon container and they bring it right to my door.  I just leave the money and empty water containers outside my door and it's there the next day.  They never serve you water in a restaurant unless you specifically ask for it because they have to use bottled water.

Cab drivers really know their way around and when they say they will be there in 5 minutes, they are there in 3. When they come to any stop, they shift into park and often put the emergency brake on too. They do this each and every time they come to a stop. So far, this has happened with every cab ride I've taken.

People have an image of Taiwan as being ugly and polluted with trash strewn everywhere. I'm sure some parts of the city can be but there is an incredible wealth of natural and architectural beauty here.  There is art in statues, sculptures and even in how the sidewalks are laid out all over the place.  I have faced very little pollution so far and I'm amazed by the beauty of this city each and every day.

And finally, Taiwanese people are so friendly.  I get smiled at and bowed to at some point each and every day.  People yell "Hello" out of their cars and from passing scooters.  I feel safe no matter where I walk and at whatever time of day or night I travel through the city.

I can't wait for people to visit so I can share this experience with them!

Move Over People!!

Do I love having a bicycle in Kaohsiung?  Absolutely!  But riding a bike in this city has both a positive and negative side.  Since I always like to end things on a positive note, I'll start with the negative.

Drivers and pedestrians in this city are CRAZY! Riding my bike is taking my life in my hands each and every time.  I admit it, it's exhilarating but COME ON!  The mornings are okay.  When I leave for work at 6:30 or so, it's cooler outside (still ridiculously humid) but there is little traffic so it's not so bad.  The way home is another matter.  I have to go down this very busy road and, you know that video I posted with scooter drivers, well, that's what it's like all around me.  Even if there is room, they pass me going 30-40 mph only 3 inches from me.  They cut right in front of me without even looking.  I have to cross this really busy street to get to the other side of the railway and into my neighborhood.  That part is terrifying.  When the light turns green, I have to go as fast as possible with 50 scooters around me and cars coming and turning the other way.  They don't care if I'm a few feet behind, they go around me, in front of me, beside me.  No right-of-way at all!  Cabs cut right in front of everyone because apparently they have ultimate reign of the roads.  By the time I get home, my heart is pounding, I'm all sweaty and feel like dropping to my knees and kissing the ground.  I've let go of a few good French curse words on my rides around Kaohsiung. Check this video out and you'll get a little glimpse of what I'm up against. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mij0SHySK4s

Pedestrians aren't any better.  They don't even look when they cross and walk right in front of you.  I could BRRRINNG BRRRINNGG it all day long and they don't even turn around or move over.  The bike trails are right next to walking trails.  Do they walk on those?  No!  They walk on the bike trails and don't move.  I have come to complete stops because the path is completely blocked by a couple strolling along.  Cars may not be on the bike trails but every now and then, a scooter heads your way or flies by.  That isn't allowed but I guess no one cares.

Oh, and dogs!  They are everywhere and you rarely see a dog on a leash.  The dogs actually follow the rules of the road and trails better than their owners but I still have to stop and take it slow all the time because of little Fidos in the trail.

Okay, that's my bike rant.  Now the positives!

I love having the freedom to get around the city without having to speak Chinese.  Before that I would have to figure out a way to get to a specific store by taxi without knowing how to say it or not having it in writing.  Today I rode to a great grocery store that I hadn't been to before because it's just a bit too far to walk.  I filled my bike basket, a backpack and had a small bag and was able to carry it home no problem.

Having the freedom to go to stores, ride down the trails and explore the city is a wonderful thing.  It takes me less than 15 minutes to bike to and from school and now I can meet people for dinner without waiting for a taxi and without walking 40 minutes each way.  I may have a healthy fear of biking through this city but with my backpack, bike helmet and a deep breath, I will conquer this city and will live to tell about it!


Saturday, August 30, 2014

Teaching in Taiwan

In the states I worked at an amazing school for 13 years.  Parents are involved there and, although it could be intense at times, it truly was a remarkable place to teach.  I thought I knew what it was to work with parents who have high expectations.  Nothing prepared me for Friday afternoon.

First, I have to say, I enjoy working with the parents of my students.  Teachers and parents have to work together so that kids become not just strong academically but strong as people. Anyway, on Friday afternoon I got to meet many of my parents at our school Open House.  We have 7 blocks in middle school along with Advisory.  I teach 5 blocks, all math and science, 4 of them 6th graders and one block of 7th grade pre-algebra. Open House was set up so that parents followed their child's schedule.  I had five 10 minute sessions with parents and it was pretty intense. Several of my sessions ran over the 10 minutes.

I shared the class syllabus and homework/grading expectations.  I shared my philosophy about teaching and I also told them that, because I was away for a week, I didn't had much time to put homework grades into our system (where parents and students have access and can see how they are doing).  I promised that those would be in by the end of the weekend.

First, you have to understand that many parents speak little or no English so I had to be very aware of how I presented things.  Many of my students came with parents so they could translate (and many of those students have limited English).  I then answered question after question about how I grade homework, how I support students, what I do to challenge students, how quickly I will put grades into the gradebook and basically got the impression that I wasn't giving enough homework.  Just so you know, last week was the 3rd week of school and in one class, I've already given out 12 homework assignments.

In Taiwan, many students go to a tutor after school.  These are called bushibans or "cram schools". Many of my students go to these and I can tell when they do their homework if they went the night before.  That's okay, they are learning to speak English so I'll take any help they can give for now.  I just didn't realize how intense parents are about the grades and how I have to give them some understanding of how an American school differs from a traditional Taiwanese school.  It Taiwan it is competitive right from the start and the focus is on skills and grades.  Students will check their grades on Powerschool several times a day and will contact a teacher about scores on a regular basis. Parents will check every day as well and will be all over their child for missing work or a poor grade.  I was asked if I give students opportunities to make up work and do extra work.  I don't think I've been asked this question in the states.

When you meet parents as a teacher in Taiwan you are expected to give them your business card. Yes, I have a business card.

There is a social etiquette to this.  You don't just have a stack of cards on a table that they will grab on the way out.  You have to present it face up, with both hands and bow.  I have never bowed or have been bowed to so much in my life.  I bow all the time here.  It is so much a part of the culture and honestly, I love it.  Here is a site that give more info on Business Card Etiquette.

I guess I had a good turnout of parents compared to other teachers and I'm guessing it's because I'm new and an unknown entity.  I have a more casual and goofy way about me that I had to temper for this event and realize I have to temper a bit as a teacher as well, at least until students get to know me.  They are so use to the local schools where they aren't allowed to speak and it's all about memorization and skills.  When I ask them to respond (god forbid) or I do something funny, they look at me like I'm an alien.  They can do the math operations like nobodies business but ask them to solve a problem in a different way or think outside the box in any way, there is a complete look of "there's another way to solve this problem?"  I have many challenges ahead and I'm excited about working with these kids and parents.

Back to the grades...I spent 7 hours yesterday grading and inputting those grades into the on-line gradebook.  I have a ton of missing work (since I was gone for a week and I hadn't had a chance to grade or check that work, so much isn't there) so many students have lower grades until I get that work this week.  I told parents and students that, because I was away, they are lucky that they'll have a break on this missing work but that from now on, starting this week, every day late is 10% off the grade.  I've already received 12 emails from students asking about why they have an A- or B instead of a perfect score.  12!!  I still have some science grades to put in today so I'm sure I'll have a few more emails.  I plan on sending an email to all of my students letting them know the grades are in but that missing homework has affected the scores so they better have that work ready for me tomorrow. They will not be penalized for any missing work so far as long as I have everything by Wednesday.

It should be a very interesting year!

Thursday, August 28, 2014

Nom, nom!

The school I'm teaching at has a cafeteria that serves pretty good food. About $2.50 gets you quite the plate of food including noodles, veggies, different meats, etc. Most kids seem to get hot lunch. Next to the cafeteria is a little canteen that serves food and drink from 8:00 to 4:00 and I'm becoming a regular. I take one break to go get some form of tea drink (iced green tea or black tea or, my new favorite, milk tea) and this week I got lunch. For about $2 you get this...


I had Kung Pao chicken and it was delicious! It was spicy and wonderful and filling. Why pack a lunch when I can have this!?

Root Canal Part 3

Whose bright idea was it to have the third and final root canal procedure the evening after my 27 hour trip back to Taiwan? Yup! That would be me! I'm an idiot.

My flights back were long but uneventful. My last flight from Hong Kong to Kaohsiung was delayed so I didn't land until almost midnight and didn't get home until 1 a.m. Of course I couldn't sleep and went into work at 6:30 a.m. after only 2 1/2 hours of sleep and only 2 hours of sleep on the plane. I'm still amazed I made it through the day. I got home around 5:00 and took a 30 minute nap, made some food and headed off to get my final procedure done.

I want you to picture this place. First of all, the lobby is pretty stunning with a high ceiling, stone and fancy lights.



You have to walk up this grand staircase to get to the dentist (about 60 steps) and then when you sit, you see this. I'm not quite sure what to think. Such a mixture of sophistication and kitsch. Gotta love it!


How civilized!

I'm hoping you can read these because I was impressed by how the Japanese deal with bathroom "functions". First of all, the first time I was waiting in line to pee in Hong Kong I kept hearing the toilets flush over and over. What the heck was going on? Finally two little Asian women came out and I figured that was that. Then later in the Tokyo airport I saw this. Flushing sound? I guess it's unseemly to hear someone pee. I pressed it, of course, and it just sounds like a recording of flushing. Seems like that is much more annoying but when in Rome...um, Tokyo. Oh, and NO, I did not press the spray button.

Monday, August 25, 2014

Returning to Taiwan


As I sit here in the Hong Kong airport after a 15 1/2 hour flight and waiting for my final flight into Kaohsiung, I can't believe I survived a round trip to and from the states in less than a week. I can't believe that I have to teach in the morning!

My daughter's wedding was so amazingly touching and beautiful and I'm so lucky that I'm part of such an incredible family. As I left this time, it was so much harder to leave and I've been emotional and weepy all day. Last time I knew I would see my girls in a month; this time I'll be gone for 10 months. Right now the thought of that is overwhelming and I'm having a "what the hell am I doing here" moment. Everything in Maine is so familiar and comfortable, like that perfect pair of jeans. This adventure challenges everything and nothing is familiar. I know this feeling of being overwhelmed and sad will pass. I mean, I will always miss my daughters but the ache is easier to deal with when I'm not sleep deprived and am so busy with a new school, new language, new home, new friends and new country.

Don't you worry, my positive and peppy nature will return after a few nights of sleep and I settle back in. More posts of my adventures will soon follow. Just send a mental hug my way; I need it right now.

Monday, August 18, 2014

Kaohsiung airport


Wow! What an airport! I know I flew into Kaohsiung over three weeks ago but I didn't get to see it. It's gorgeous.

Each gate is unique, colorful and bright. No snacks or water anywhere but I can buy booze and luxury items.








Some things I haven't adjusted to yet.


Yup, that's an option.

First stop Tokyo with a six hour layover, then Toronto and final destination Boston. I'm not sure I'm ready for this.

Saturday, August 16, 2014

Grocery Shopping in Kaohsiung

In general I've been going to a little supermarket in my neighborhood to get most of the things I need to cook as well as this afternoon market near the school.  Today I went to a fruit & vegetable market then Carrefour, a huge market kind of like Target but with more groceries.

First the fruit market...

You have to understand that at 8:30 in the morning, it's already about 90 degrees outside and the fruit markets are outside.  Luckily it's all shaded so that helped.  I couldn't believe the selection of things that are grown locally and how they are presented.  Taiwan grows an incredible assortment of fruit and many I have loved eating since I got here - mangos the size of footballs, guava and asian pears to name a few.  There were some things I didn't even recognize.

 People who don't like guava say it doesn't taste like anything but I disagree.  I LOVE this fruit.  It's hard and crunchy with a little tang and touch of both sour and sweet.  Mmmmmm
  
 The avocados are huge - about 3 times the size of a California avocado.  I don't think they are as flavorful as those from California and the flesh has less meatiness to it.  I found California avocados at Costco and bought a bag but will gladly eat a local one.

 These grapes are amazing. Look at the color and how they present them.

 Star fruit, if you haven't had it in the states, is fresh and sweet, almost like eating a papaya, orange and a grapefruit blended together.

 I have no clue what these are.  They almost look like a cross between a guava and an apple.  I will get these next time.  I am leaving for Maine on Tuesday so I could only buy so much.

 These little tomatoes are treated like a fruit here (which technically they are) and are commonly eaten for dessert.  Again, I love that you buy them by the kilogram.

 Again, no clue but aren't they amazing looking?!  I did try to find something online and I think these may be called a Sugar Apple.  I definitely want to try one of these.  The cost, 39 NT each, which is just over a dollar.  Oh, and these are bigger than a softball.

 I believe that this is durian...that wonderfully smelly fruit that is common in this culture.  Haven't tried that yet.

 Like I said, so many things I don't recognize!

These are watermelons.  Phew!  Recognize these!  The watermelon in season right now is a small yellow melon, which is so delicious.  There are also smaller red ones but you see these everywhere.  When you buy one on the street from a local farmer, they cut it all up for you and wrap it up.  Such little things in life make you happy.

After packing our fruit into the car, we drove to Carrefour, a local place.  First of all, these big places are more like malls.  Usually you park in the garage and have to put 10 NT in the cart lock to get a cart (which you get back when you return the cart).  You have to wander through a mall type area with shoes, clothes, etc. to get to the actual store.  Then there are escalators that take you up or down the levels, that's how big these places are.  The escalators are magnetic so your cart gets locked into place as you go up and down.  Here's a video showing you what it looks like.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsrjZ1hfxWs  It took me by surprise the first time.

If you know me, you know that shopping is not my favorite pastime.  Within minutes I'm overwhelmed and begin to wander and forget everything I need to get.  Thank goodness for lists. Carrefour is huge and thankfully I was able to find many items I needed like a small vacuum cleaner (the brooms are so short here and I have so much floor to clean), table lamps and a few more cooking utensils.  By the time I was there 30 minutes my tolerance was over and I wanted to run out of the store screaming.  Instead, I walked around in a daze hoping I'd stumble across something on my list.  Eventually I made my way to the grocery part of the store and snapped some photos.
 There are all different grains and in some markets, you can see a dozen or more of these bowls.

 This is all tofu.  Tofu comes in so many flavors and textures here.  I've become very fond of the 5 spice kind.  Nomnom.

 This is almost all dried fish. That is a huge thing here!

 So many hot items to choose from that I have no clue what they are.  Next time I'm going to ask one of the staff people at school to come with me so I have somewhat of a clue.  I want to try this stuff out!


So now I'm back home, things purchased and put away, eating a guava while I wrap my brain around writing sub plans for pre-algebra.  After today's shopping, I now have a handle or a few places to buy some basics and a couple more to buy everything under the sun.  The only thing I miss, and haven't found yet, is mayonaise.  I don't miss anything else but that, especially when I want a tuna melt.  Hmmmmm....I wonder where I can hunt that down?

Friday, August 15, 2014

First Bike Tour of Kaohsiung

I biked just under 20 kilometers today!  Woohoo!  Behind is a bit sore but much better than I expected.  One of the teachers at the school where I'm teaching, Jen, took 5 of us around the city and showed us the amazing bike trail that takes us along the Love River and along the harbor. It's hard to stop and take pictures when you are following someone but now that I know the way, I'll be taking and posting pictures in the future.  Access to the trail is literally 1 minute from my apartment so it's a perfect way for me to get to a small shopping area and to the water.

After biking for a while, we stopped at this little shop for Mango Ice, which is basically a big bowl of shaved ice topped with a scoop of mango ice cream and a whole chopped up mango (see #1 in the picture).  The serving is HUGE and I never thought I'd finish it but it was delicious and I did.  It was so hot today that the ice made a big difference in cooling us down.

While sitting outside, Jen pointed out the ferry terminal and told us there is a ferry every few minutes that takes you to an island in the harbor.  The ride is only a few minutes long and costs 50 cents.  We rolled our bikes on board and headed across the harbor to this crazy island that is completely touristy and has rickshaws and food everywhere.  Again, I'll be going back to take more pictures.
 Our view when we got on board the ferry.

 The harbor area is busy and colorful.

 The view of Kaohsiung downtown from the ferry.


The island is called Cijin Island and it's a place you could spend an entire day.  It's like going to spend the day at Old Orchard Beach where there is food, drink, tourist stuff and the ocean.  Except, as you can see, Cijin is a bit more exotic. 


We rode through the town where there is seafood being sold everywhere (raw fish and shellfish along with cooked seafood like cuttlefish) and headed toward the ocean.  I was so happy to see the ocean and the big waves crashing along the shore.  I missed it.  Here the water is incredibly warm so it doesn't cool you off like the ocean in Maine but it was beautiful.  The temperatures is in the 90's today and the humidity makes it feel like 105.



You can see a ship that is beached in the distance of this shot.

It's hard to tell from these photos but there are dozens of cargo ships everywhere. This is where you can tell that Kaohsiung is such a huge shipping port.

If you'd like to read more about Cijin Island and Kaohsiung Harbor, here's a website you can check out.  http://travelkaohsiung.com/places-to-go/attractions/cijin-island/

I can't wait to go out again and head a different direction on the trails.  There are miles and miles of them all around Kaohsiung and many more are being built.  I'm excited!

I want to ride my bicycle, I want to ride my bike.....

Briiiinnnnnggg, Brrrrrinnnng!

 A detachable basket - a must since this is how I will bring groceries home.

 The LIV brand made here in Taiwan is made specifically for women.

Without basket for when I speed along and do some mountain biking (yeah, right).

It's official...I now have another mode of transportation in Kaohsiung other than walking and taxi. It's both exciting and TERRIFYING!  Drivers are freakin' crazy here!  I haven't truly biked in a city since I lived in Boston.  That was my main mode of transportation for years and, although dangerous at times, I understood the rules of the road.  Here?  Not so much.  I realized, as I was biking home from the LIV store (that's the bike place and bike brand I got), that I need some freakin' mirrors on this baby so I can see those scooters coming.

One of  the teachers at the school is taking a few of us newbies on a bike tour of the city tomorrow because there are miles and miles of bike trails throughout this city. You can also take your bike on all of the trains in Taiwan so I can take a train to the country and bike away Woohoo!  Watch out Taiwan as I brrrrinngg brrrinngg it!